Open safari vehicle crossing a wooden bridge over the bay at Caiman Ecological Refuge in the South Pantanal
Pantanal

Solo Safari in the Pantanal: Andrea’s Trip to Caiman Ecological Refuge

October 26, 2026

A reproductive biologist from Australia, a wildlife symposium in Campo Grande, and five days alone at the Caiman Ecological Refuge, told in her own words

Andrea Laws-King, 67, is a reproductive biologist, an endurance horse rider, and a business owner from Australia. She flew to Brazil to attend the International Symposium on Reproductive Biotechnology for Wildlife Conservation in Campo Grande, the capital of Mato Grosso do Sul and the main gateway to the Southern Pantanal.

After the event, she would have a few free days that could be spent on a trip to get to know the country better. While researching potential destinations, she came across the Pantanal—a place she had never heard of before. Given its proximity to Campo Grande and her interest in nature and animals, she decided it would be the perfect destination for her solo trip.

In August 2026, Andrea spent five days at the Caiman Ecological Refuge, a 53,000-hectare private reserve that welcomes guests from around the world to luxurious accommodations and organizes ecotourism and conservation activities. The entire trip was planned and booked through PlanetaEXO. This is her story. Check it out below!

Andrea on a guided walk through palm-filled forest at Caiman Ecological Refuge in the Pantanal

Encounters with jaguars through Onçafari

During her stay, Andrea got a close-up look at the work of the Onçafari Project, a conservation and protection initiative for jaguars that employs habituation practices to familiarize the animals with human presence to facilitate research and enhance ecotourism. The program was established in 2011 at Caiman’s own grounds, making it the best place in the entire Southern Pantanal to spot these mighty felines.

Although she knew about Onçafari through the itinerary booked with PlanetaEXO, she didn’t fully grasp what the project entailed—but it didn’t take long for her to become enchanted by the work of the professionals involved. “I really enjoyed my day with Onçafari, seeing and learning about the jaguars,” she said. “It was a definite eye-opener with regard to wildlife conservation.”

Worth knowing: the regular game drives at Caiman already give you good odds of a jaguar sighting, but the Onçafari Experience, which offers an immersive way to understand the science of the project, is a paid add-on. Just like Andrea, many travelers say it’s worth the investment!

Jaguar resting on a tree branch in the Pantanal, the big cat Onçafari helps protect

👉 Read more: Where is the Best Place to See Jaguars in the Pantanal?

Hyacinth macaws, new trees, and a heart-warming homage

After coming across the Blue Macaw Project on Caiman’s website, Andrea requested to join the activity as soon as she arrived at the lodge. The hyacinth macaw, recognized as the largest flying parrot on the planet, remains classified as vulnerable. Founded in 1990 by researcher Neiva Guedes, the initiative is funded by fixed contributions from these outings, with every cent going straight to protection efforts.

Andrea and her group, with families from France and England, watched the scientists climb the trees to check the nests. “I loved going out with them to visit natural nests and nesting boxes for the hyacinth macaws while being observed by these magnificent birds.”

During the tour, Andrea was pleasantly surprised by the opportunity to plant a tree. Happy and moved to be able to contribute to the local flora after having observed one of the Pantanal’s most iconic animals, she considers this one of the most memorable moments of the trip—and for a very personal reason. “I was asked to put a name on [the tree]! The group suggested my elderly dog, Snowball, who had just passed away in Australia,” she recalled fondly.

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Perfect mix: nature, expert guides, and premium hospitality

The itinerary follows the rhythm of nature at Caiman. Safaris take place in the early morning and again in the afternoon—when animals are most active and the chances of spotting them are greatest. Upon returning to the lodge at the end of the day, as darkness settles over the Pantanal landscape, the guides use spotlights to find nocturnal animals.

Speaking of guides, Andrea’s verdict on them is positively direct. “The guides were extremely knowledgeable. They wanted everyone to see maximum birds and wildlife. Their respect for the animals and the environment was immeasurable.”

Back at Caiman, she soon noticed the contrast between the untouched nature and the high-end services she enjoyed as a guest. “The lodge experience was amazing! The stay experience was phenomenal in between game drives in the open vehicles,” she marveled.

The main accommodation, Casa Caiman, is a former farmhouse with 18 suites, a restaurant, a bar, a swimming pool, and a deck overlooking the bay. Andrea couldn’t have been more satisfied. “The organization at Caiman was superb,” she praised. “The comfort was next to none, and the staff could not have been better!”

Swimming pool with loungers and hammocks under the trees at Casa Caiman lodge

👉 Read more: Where to Stay in the Pantanal?

Safety as a solo female traveler

As a child, Andrea visited Rio de Janeiro with her family. Years later, she returned to Brazil as an adult woman—alone and in a country completely different from her own. “I was excited, albeit a little nervous,” she admitted. Thankfully, the nerves didn’t last for long. “I felt safe during my stay, and the local people were all very welcoming.”

Having a specialized team organizing the logistics of the trip also made a difference. “Going to the Pantanal on a trip organized by PlanetaEXO made it easy being a solo female traveler,” she said. “The pickup and drop-off were seamless, and the team kept me well informed. I felt very safe.”

Andrea with her group of fellow travelers around the newly planted Snowball tree at Caiman

👉 Read more: Ecotourism in Brazil boosts solo travel for women through planning and support networks

Andrea’s recommendations for an unforgettable experience at the Pantanal and Caiman

When asked about useful tips for those traveling to the Pantanal for the first time, Andrea had no doubt about her answer. “Definitely book through PlanetaEXO and do the Caiman trip. The experience is exactly as described [online].”

She also took note of horseback riding, though she opted to skip it herself. Since she already works professionally in the field of endurance riding, she preferred to focus on activities that fall outside her daily routine. However, she did observe that the rides are excellent for those with less experience.

“[At Caiman], horseback rides are geared toward non-riders, featuring a slow pace and a 'follow-the-leader' approach.” A great tip for beginners!

Guests on a slow horseback ride along a forest trail at Caiman, following a guide

The Pantanal in three words and Andrea’s next travel plans

Impressed by the comfort at Caiman, the connection with nature, and the beauty of the Pantanal, Andrea summed up her travel experience in three words: “Expansive. Remote. Wonder.”

The trip in Brazil was so positive that she already wants to return—and to a different destination this time. “I would love to visit the Amazon next time! Piranhas and pink dolphins? Yes, please!”

Guests watching a giant anteater in the grassland during a safari at Caiman

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Visiting Caiman and the South Pantanal with PlanetaEXO

Now that you’ve met Caiman through Andrea’s eyes, you know what this corner of the Pantanal offers: jaguar research you can see up close, hyacinth macaws watching you from their nests, and real comfort in between game drives.

PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Southern Pantanal tours. Working alongside experienced local guides and operators, we handle the logistics (the transfer from Campo Grande, the lodge, the meals, and the activity program), so you can focus on the wildlife. Contact us now!

Aerial view of Caiman Ecological Refuge with its lodge, bay and wetlands of the South Pantanal
Photo: Felipe Castellari